Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit: Apparently World Famous!

The Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit was a trip we had heard about for years. It sounded appealing, but we were never quite sure how to make it work. Then one day back in the fall, a friend texted us: she had a booking for early August (!) and asked if we wanted to join. It was only early November, and at that point we had no idea what our summer plans might look like, so we told her we’d think about it. After turning it over for a few months, we decided that if we really wanted to make this happen, this was our chance. Our friends had done a bit more canoeing than us, they have two girls, and they are always fun to hang out with. So, we finally committed to doing the Circuit together.

The Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit is a 116 km wilderness loop of connected lakes, rivers, and portage trails in the Cariboo Mountains. What makes it unique is that you haul your canoe and gear over land using canoe carts between waterways, completing a full circuit right back to where you started.

Our journey began with a long drive. We left Vancouver in the late afternoon and made it as far as Hope, where we camped for the night along the river. The next day was a full day’s drive up north: passing a roadside fire near Lytton, taking a nice lunch break in Williams Lake, stopping for gas and ice cream in Quesnel, and finally arriving at Bowron Lake Lodge. There we connected with our friends and set up camp for the night.

The following morning was our official start day. We watched the mandatory orientation video covering safety and park rules, and got all our gear weighed to meet park regulations. Even though it was the start of the August long weekend, the launch area didn’t feel crowded at all. After our first long portage – pushing our loaded canoes along the forested trail, we were finally on the water, ready to head deep into the wilderness. We had packed 10 days worth of food and were prepared to take our time. We weren’t in any rush (though it turned out our friends were a bit more eager to move!). The friendly owner of Bowron Lake Lodge, who has done the circuit many times, had given us great advice: take your time. He mentioned that most people rush through it, and by the time they actually acclimatize and sync up with the natural rhythm of the trip, it’s almost over.

There was something deeply refreshing about being completely disconnected for so many days and waking up each morning without reaching for phones, news, or social media. We could just be present. The kids played together so nicely in nature that we barely had to entertain them at all. That said, Neil did complain that the long paddling stretches could get a bit boring and that he’d much rather be cycling. Kai absolutely loved the canoe trip and was completely in his element playing on the beach. We had plenty of laughs, tackled a few challenges together, and enjoyed cozy evenings by the fire roasting marshmallows and sharing stories.

There are dozens of designated wilderness campsites dotted along the circuit, complete with rustic tent pads and bear caches, and we always managed to secure a great spot. The most dramatic stretch of water on the entire circuit is on the Cariboo River. Specifically “The Chute” followed by “The Roller Coaster”, where the river speeds up into small rapids with plenty of “deadheads” (submerged logs) to dodge. We camped right above The Chute, which gave us the whole afternoon to practice running it with an empty canoe. It also gave some of us a chance to try body rafting, which Neil declared the absolute best part of the trip.

For some reason, one of our friends was determined to push ahead to Sandy Lake, he kept insisting that “it’s always sunny at Sandy!” and always seemed to have his eye on the next spot. By the time we actually reached Sandy, he was ready to press on to Unna Lake! We decided to stay the night at Sandy Lake instead, which was the first spot where we encountered mosquitoes. We came prepared since we had heard how bad they can get, although August generally tends to be a lower-bug month. Sandy Lake rewarded us with the most incredible rainbow stretched across the water, making the stay completely worth it.

Unna Lake is a short side trip off the main route, but it really shouldn’t be skipped. We paddled across to the far shore of the lake and took a short hike to Cariboo Falls. On the way we feasted on wild blueberries, huckleberries, and the plumpest Saskatoon berries we’ve ever had. The next morning, our friend called out to us from outside our tent. He had stepped out early and spotted a massive moose right in the middle of the campground! We stood quietly for several minutes, watching this enormous, peaceful animal until it casually waded into the lake and swam off out of sight. It felt almost too surreal, like a dream.

The final leg of the circuit, paddling across the wide expanse of Bowron Lake to close the loop, turned out to be the most demanding water section of the whole trip. We were in “end of trip mode” and paddled straight out down the middle of the lake, but a wind whipped up suddenly, with waves that nearly capsized us a couple of times. We pulled off to the shoreline to rest and reassess, then hugged the sheltered shore as recommended. By the time we finally reached safe ground on the opposite shore, the lake behind us looked deceptively calm again!

In the end, we completed the circuit in 9 days, packed with magical moments. Along the trail, we met people from all over BC and beyond. A lovely Swiss couple even snapped a great photo of us paddling through The Chute and sent it to us later. When we asked what brought them all the way to BC for this specific trip, they were surprised by the question: “the Bowron Lake Circuit is world-famous, and people dream about doing this loop for years”. We realized how fortunate we are to have such an international bucket-list adventure practically in our backyard.

We spent one final night at Becker’s Lodge, where we had rented our canoe and gear. We treated ourselves to burgers (as requested by Neil), did our laundry (as requested by me), took hot showers (requested by everyone), and finally checked our phones and messages (not really requested by anyone, but bound to happen eventually). Even after nine full days off the grid, it didn’t feel like we had missed much in the “real world.”

Before heading off toward the Rockies to continue our summer adventures, there was one last stop on our list: Barkerville. It’s a preserved gold rush town that feels frozen in the 1800s, complete with costumed interpreters, historic storefronts, and street performances. It was a fun way to step back in time together before hitting the open road for the mountains.